Now, same track with Wavetrac: the patented cam device in the Wavetrac prevents loss of drive when that inside wheel is unloaded. The result on a track (or during aggressive driving) is that there are many times when a normal gear diff supplies only intermittent power to the gripping wheel. Gear diffs need load on both axles in order to function. The issue is that for the brief moments your inside tire becomes unloaded when bouncing over curbs, your other wheel is not getting drive - is not putting power down. Let’s get to how the Wavetrac affects performance:įor example, you have a conventional gear diff (OEM, Quaife, MF, OBX, Truetrac, Torsen, etc.), you're on a race track for a track day and during cornering your inside wheel bumps over the curbing. We won’t go into torque bias ratios or the concept of how torque biasing diffs work at this point. It happens more than most people realise. Simply put - Wavetrac is the only gear diff on the market that does not lose all drive when one axle is unloaded. Axles become unloaded in aggressive driving, track cornering, extremely slick surfaces, etc. Category Name: Polo, Category Path: Volkswagen.that may be incurred during the removal and installation of the axles. Nor is Raxles or the author responsible for any problems, screw-ups, damage, cuts, abrasions, cursing, etc. nor the author of this “How-To” is responsible for any mistakes or omissions in this write up. Please Note: You will need a front-end alignment after installing axles.ĭisclaimer: Raxles Inc.Unfortunately most of us can’t do it the way the Bentley describes, the way I am suggesting is the way a VW Tech suggested it be done. If you read the Bentley Manual it gives Very Good instructions on how to tighten the 30 mm axle nut. If you have an impact gun its easy if you are using a ratchet, move up to a breaker bar and turn till it stops! Just don’t strip anything or that will cost you even more money!! You should have about 4-5 threads exposed once you are tight. 30 mm Axle nut, tight as possible until axle nut does not turn anymore.Avoid extending the axle in an extreme position with suspension at maximum droop.Sway bar bolt to Control Arm, 33 ft lbs.3 bolts under control arm, 15 ft lbs plus a ¼ turn.6 bolts holding axles to Transmission, 59 ft lbs.DO NOT try to lift the rotor assembly up. NOTE: push down on Control arm when trying to re-insert ball joint.Install your NEW RAXLES in reverse order!! Be Careful, Make SURE you line up the splines on the end of the Raxles with the splines on your hub.Pull the OEM axles out through the wheel wells and clean all the old grease out of the transmission flange.Now use the 10 mm 12 point(Triple Square) bit again and finish removing the 6 bolts that hold the axle to the transmission.The OEM axle will now be resting on the Control arm and still attached to the transmission.Yes it will be hanging by the strut but that’s okay. ![]() Once the axle is pushed through the hub assembly pull the whole rotor assembly back and out of the way.Caution: On the right side, the axle may hold the spring in tension.While pulling out on the rotor use the gun to push out the axle through. ![]() If you have an Air Impact Hammer this makes it SO much easier. DO NOT at any time during this procedure rotate the rotor, it could damage the wheel bearings.
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